Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to learn these stories and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
